How to make ketchup from scratch (with no HFCS!)
This post I debated – is ketchup worthy of being written up on a blog about lost culinary arts, about doing things that aren’t really very easy? I mean, what’s next, posts about lemon bars and how to make a mean vegetarian pasta? It’s a slippery slope between being true to the mission, and channeling Rachel Ray.
Because on the one hand, while ketchup’s not quite as easy as making tomato sauce, it ain’t rocket science. But on the other hand, it’s enough of a mystery and pain in the ass that I had never done it before.
And while all that mental debate was being played out in some schizophrenic place in my head, I tasted the fruit of my efforts, and wondered how I had ever eaten Heinz. Holy shit. Really. And with that, I knew it must be blogged about here. Because you really should be making your own, it’s just that Goddamned good.
For me, this effort started where they often do: with a giant box of excess ingredients about to melt down into compost at any moment. In this case, tomatoes. On Saturday, as we were tearing down our tent at the Holly Springs Farmers’ Market, I made a deal with a nearby tomato seller: one bag of coffee in exchange for all the tomatoes he had left that wouldn’t last the weekend. Which turned out to be around 50 lbs of butt-ugly, maximally ripe, about to burst or ooze out of the box tomatoes.
Some of those tomatoes wound up as sauce, and some just plain canned tomatoes. But even after we had canned all we were going to need for the year (remember, I’ve been canning tomatoes for weeks now), I still had approximately a metric shitload of tomatoes remaining. So I decided to tackle something that’s been on my list for years, but I’ve never quite gotten around to: ketchup. How hard could it be, right? Turns out that the question I should have been asking all these years is “how good could it be?“.
The research started as it always does, with an internet search, and a scouring of my home library, now made much easier by eatyourbooks.com(no paid plug, I really just love their site/service) I also read the back of the Heinz bottle looking for clues.
As an aside, I’ll mention that I also did a serious Heinz ketchup tasting, trying to ascertain the ingredients and proportions. I must admit, it’s the first time I ever really tasted ketchup for the sake of tasting ketchup. It was kinda gross. It is way sweeter than I ever consciously realized. And other than that, kinda benign, flavor-wise. I realized it wouldn’t be hard to beat.
The recipes I read had many common threads. Tomato concentrate. Sweetener. Vinegar. Spices. Salt. All I had to do was deduce the proportions, cobble together a recipe, and figure out the technique. And that, my friends, is the stuff this blog is made of. Most of the recipes out there are small batch, and struck me as being about 1/3 each tomato, sweetener, and vinegar. I knew I would never like something so sweet, and my family would never like so much vinegar. I also guessed that ketchup is a non-linear kind of recipe, i.e., a big batch doesn’t require proportionately more of everything. So I figured I’d start small, and add to taste. Here’s the photo blog, which I’ll follow with a recipe.
Now you need to simmer to get the right consistency. Sorry, it didn’t occur to me to get a snap of it simmering, but how boring would that be anyway? Turns out I needed quite a lot of simmering, about a lawn-cutting’s worth (I went out and cut the lawn while it simmered, uncovered, so about 2 hours. When I came in it was perfect.)
So here’s the recipe for the batch I made:
Recipe
3 qts coarsely chopped, very ripe tomatoes (about 20)
2 onions, chopped
2 large garlic cloves, smashed
3/4 cup demerara sugar
2 cups apple cider vinegar
3 cans tomato paste
1 tsp coriander seed
1 tsp mustard seed
1 tsp whole cloves
1 tsp whole allspice
1 tsp broken up cinnamon stick
26 grams sea salt
Boil then simmer the tomatoes, onions and garlic in a large pot for about 20 minutes. In a separate pot, toast the spices, then add the vinegar, boil then simmer for 15 minutes. Strain the spiced vinegar into the tomatoes, discard the spices. Add the past, sugar and salt. Blend well with immersion blender. Simmer uncovered until desired texture is achieved (depends on water content of tomatoes; mine took 2 hours). Strain through food mill to remove seeds and stems. Can in the usual way.
Cost Analysis
Tomatoes: if you bought them, figure about $5
Paste: $1.50
Vinegar: $1
Salt & Spices: $0.50
Sugar: $0.75
Onions and garlic: $1
Total: $9.75. Yields 8 half pints. $1.22 per half pint, or $0.15 per ounce. Heinz is about $0.11 per ounce, so mine’s not cheaper, but it’s not that much more expensive. But there is no comparison in taste, trust me.
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How to make eggplant salsa from scratch
Ah, summer. The time when posts to this blog are farther and fewer between, because it’s just so damned easy to eat well in summer. After all, these posts are dedicated to things that are difficult.
Well, there is one thing that starts to get difficult about mid-July: using all the eggplant coming out of your garden, farmers’ market or grocery store. These prolific plants pump out the fruits until the first frost, and there’s only so much eggplant parm one can eat. So what to do with the summer bounty?
In my house, the answer is eggplant salsa.
Now, eggplant salsa is nothing new. But when I perused recipes for inspiration to punch mine up, I realized something – the way I make mine is a lot easier than most recipes, which often call for roasting the eggplants first (and sometimes even peeling them, for God’s sake). The resultant “salsa”, while lovely in its own right, doesn’t resemble anything my kids like to eat. And worst of all, they don’t look like they store for the long haul. Well Dear Reader, that’s not the way I roll. My stuff has got to be simple, delicious, kid-friendly, and store-able all year. These characteristics set mine apart from the usual fare found on the internet.
Unfortunately, it didn’t occur to me to photograph the process, so you’ll have to follow written instructions and rely on the photo above for inspiration. Here’s the basic recipe, but it’s very forgiving in terms of both ingredients and ratios.
4 cups shredded eggplants
4 cups chopped tomato
1 large onion of choice
4 garlic cloves
1 can tomato paste
1/2 cup vinegar of choice (cider works well)
Juice of 2 limes (or lemons)
2 TBSP salt (I prefer smoked, or sea salt)
1 TBSP ground cumin
1 TBSP dried cilantro (or a big bunch fresh)
1 TBSP ground black pepper
2 TBSP toasted, crushed coriander seed
Other optional ingredients: cut corn, black beans, shredded squash, spicy peppers minced, etc etc etc
Heat some olive oil. Saute the onions and garlic in a large saucepan for a minute or two. Add the shredded eggplant, saute for about 10 minutes. Add the remainder of ingredients. Bring to a boil, reduce to a simmer, stirring frequently. Simmer for about an hour.
When complete, you can refrigerate, freeze or can. I canned mine tonight (simple water bath canner, 30 minutes), so two hours’ work will last the better part of a year.
A quick cost analysis:
About $5 worth of seasonal veg from the farmers’ market. About $1 worth of everything else. Yield was about 6 pints, so that’s $1 per pint. Try that at the grocery store.
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How to make strawberry jam from scratch, WITHOUT SUGAR OR ARTIFICIAL SWEETENERS
I started this blog to help people do kitchen things that are different, unusual, or downright difficult, things that are neglected topics in the world of food instruction. With the plethora of book, blogs, YouTube videos, etc out there, it’s usually pretty easy to find information and/or instructions on many, many things, even if actually doing them isn’t exactly easy.
Making traditional strawberry jam (or even novel recipes with sugar as sweetener) is one of those topics that’s extraordinarily well covered. While I hesitate to say there is nothing new to add to the subject, it’s safe to say that *I* personally have nothing new to add to the subject.
But making strawberry (or other fruit) jams without sugar, and without artificial sweeteners, well, that’s a whole ‘nother kettle of fish. While I have no health reasons for wanting sugar-free jam, I personally just don’t like how sweet traditional jams are. For a few years, I tried reducing the amount of sugar in traditional recipes, and wound up with tasty syrup. My jam just wouldn’t set. I tried recooking it with more pectin, to no avail. For two years, I poured my strawberry jam onto toast and sandwiches instead of spreading it with a knife. So in 2010, I made my last batch of strawberry jam. Until today.
What happened between then and now was a simple but life-altering discovery: Pomona Pectin. It is different than the pectin you can buy most places – that pectin only works if the correct amount of sugar is added, so that after cooking there is not enough water present to keep added pectin dissolved, and thus upon cooling, the pectin will gel. Pomona is a calcium-activated pectin, so when calcium (included with the pectin) is added, it will gel regardless of the amount of sugar present. Now that you know the secret, you can Google it and read up on the topic yourself. What I will tell you is that while Pomona pectin works like magic, it IS different to work with and requires some experience and experimentation if you want to wander off the reservation and make your own recipes.
Let me show you how I made some strawberry jam with honey today. Note that it is NOT my intention to teach you to make jam, or to do basic canning; I assume you are competent in this regard already. I’m also not trying to teach specific recipes, though I hope you will like mine and the variations of it described here. The point of this post is to teach you how to do what you know how to do already, except WITHOUT SUGAR.
I do try to include costing info with each post to refute the notion that cooking with fresh, high quality ingredients is expensive. I bought the strawberries at the farmers’ market for $12. I buy my honey by the half gallon, and estimate I may have use about $3 worth. My mint was free from my garden, but if you bought it I would have paid about $1. The lemon juice and pectin may have been $1. So for about $17, I got (12) 4-oz jars and one large (32-oz) jar (ran out of small jars!). So 80 ounces of jam for $17 is $0.21 per ounce. That’s about $1.70 for 8 ounces, which is a typical supermarket size that will run you from $3-5. And the store jam won’t taste as good, or be as good for you.
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How to make turkey soup from scratch – and can it!
Our Thanksgiving bird was, once again, wonderful. We go to a lot of trouble to buy a high-quality bird (a Bourbon Red in our case), from a farmer we know. And we pay a lot, compared to that insipid supermarket stuff they call turkey – $87 for a 12 lb bird, to be precise.
I get as as much as I can out of that bird. It’s not just the money, either – it’s a matter of respect for resources. And one of the ways we stretch the use is to start a big pot of turkey soup while we’re cleaning up from dinner. Literally, I’ll break up the roasted carcass into a soup pot, add water, put the pot on a small hob and lowest flame, and start a simmer that will last nearly 24 hours. Here’s the pictorial.
Note that you need lots of headspace – 1 inch, no kidding, if you want to assure all jars seal (one in this batch did not).
Costing notes: This turkey yielded about 30 individual meals, which is fairly unheard of for a bird this small. Total cost, then, is $2.90 per serving (that does not include dog food). The trick is to not waste any. We hope this post helps you do that.
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How to make pancetta… starting with a five-hundred-year-old pig
OK, the pig itself was not 500 years old. But my pancetta project started 5 centuries ago, give or take.
Pancetta, for the uninitiated, is an Italian version of “bacon”. It starts with a pork belly, but unlike American bacon, it is salt-cured (along with garlic, pepper and other spices), not smoked. Pancetta is typically cubed and rendered to provide flavor for any number of dishes, and to my taste is more enjoyable than American bacon, mainly because it tastes more “porky”.
Before I became determined to make pancetta, I became infatuated with a hog. Not just any hog, an Ossabaw Island hog. These pigs are descendants of the legendary Iberica swine, and were deposited by the Spaniards on Ossabaw Island, off the coast of Georgia, in the 1500’s. As an isolated, feral herd, they are now the most genetically pure European swine on the planet. These are not your ordinary industrial hogs.
Fortunately for me (who lacks a farm), I have a friend as crazy as I am. Bruce is the fourth generation on his Hillsborough, NC farm, and he agreed to raise a some Ossabaws. We bought some gilts from Cane Creek Farm in Snowcamp, NC, later found a boar from another farmer, and soon enough we had piglets. Bruce’s young son took care of the piglets, and in October we harvested the pig that was subject of this post.
While our piglets were bulking up, a couple of food bloggers created the Charcutapalooza Challenge. The gist of it is that they proposed one charcuterie challenge per month, and dangled a big prize for the person who completed all the projects in an exemplary way. They managed to get Michael Ruhlman, author of the amazing book Charcuterie, to be a consultant to the project. As soon as I saw the project I knew I needed to be involved.
Sadly, however, I’ve only had time for one challenge – duck prosciutto – till now. I posted on that one several months ago. In some ways, knowing that I can’t compete for the prize was liberating. I am now free to focus on my art, the way I want to. And I thought that it would be pretty unusual for anyone to make Ossabaw pancetta, let alone from a pig they’ve grown. In addition, I decided I would do the hog processing myself. Here’s the photo tutorial.
Now that you see how to make the pancetta, let’s do something with it: pasta carbonara.
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How to can your own tuna
It’s been a little while since my last post. There’s lots of reasons for that, of course, but mainly it’s because we’ve come to the downhill part of the season for food: summer. This blog is about things that are perceived as difficult, or requiring skills that are no longer commonly possessed by the average eater. But in the summer, anyone with even a lick of sense can eat like a king. Summertime is easy time. Even most summer canning doesn’t rise to the level of advanced. Without even breaking a sweat, you can put up pickles. If you can read at a 4th grade level, you are able to can fruits. 6th grade reading will leave you with a pantry full of tomatoes and other vegetables. So there hasn’t been much to write about here, which is kind of a good thing.
But today I took on a little project that, judging by the response I get when I tell people, is beyond the scope of the usual home cook. A “lost art”, so to speak.
Today I canned fish. Yeah, that’s right, I made my own tuna fish. You could do it with any fish, but we like tuna. And like most other make-it-yourself projects, the taste of the results bears but a passing resemblance to what you can buy. There are other reasons to can your own, too, of course: 1) lower cost; 2) assurance that you are eating sustainably harvested fish; 3) you want to know where your fish came from, whether it be because you want to eat local, or you’re cautious about mercury levels; 4) you want specific herb/spice flavors added to your fish; and the list goes one. And finally, when you come right down to it, it’s easy, too.
Before we get into the photo tutorial, let’s talk about the elephant in the room: safety. People are afraid of home canned fish; most of them don’t know WHY they should be afraid, but there is a deep-rooted fear nonetheless. Turns out there is actually a reasonable basis for concern: fish can contain Clostridiens, a type of gram positive bacteria responsible for botulism. Clostridiens, IF they are present, are not killed by normal boiling water.
All is not lost, however! The answer is a pressure cooker. Many of you may remember your mothers using a pressure cooker for canning. For many, if not most home canning tasks, a pressure cooker is great, but it’s overkill. For meats and fish, however, a pressure cooker is, in fact, a necessity. The reason is that pressure cooking under high pressure creates superheated steam, i.e., steam that is above the boiling point of water. At 11 psi, the pressure of most pressure cookers, the steam is about 250F, which is above the 244F required to kill Clostridiens. Temperature at pressure varies with altitude, so the safest thing to do is use a cooker that can get to 15 psi, which assures that you will reach at least 250F at any altitude you might be cooking at.
If you want to make jams, pickles, or can tomatoes, there is more information on the internet than you can possibly sort, and most of it is actually good. When it comes to canning fish or meat, however, there are decidedly less references. I have found a couple worth reading, as well as one video from the University of Alaska, which I consider a must-watch before you get started. here are the references and the video:
PDF from the government of Manitoba on canning fish
University of Georgia National Center for Home Food Preservation on canning fish, complete with tables of pressure required at various altitudes
And here is the mother of all fish canning videos:
OK, now that you’ve read the primers, and watched the video, let’s go through my photo tutorial.
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